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Tourism: Washington wine touring coming of age |
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Written On: March/April 2008 |
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Written By: Steve Roberts |
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On a visit to a Napa Valley, Calif., winery in 2006, a friend and I were greeted by a smiling concierge who ushered us into a room filled with other would-be wine tasters. After we paid a hefty $15 tasting fee, we were herded to one of three tasting rooms. Everyone had serious looks on their faces as they swirled their glasses and stuck their noses in for a big whiff. After 10 minutes of this we were led to a gift shop where we could purchase wine and sporty logo wear.
I left feeling empty and alienated. Maybe I just didn’t get it.
Later, we visited a number of other wineries where the atmosphere was more relaxed, but I found myself wondering if Washington wine touring would evolve into the commercialized experience I’d had in California. Now, two years later and having personally visited more than 200 Washington wineries, I can answer that question with a resounding “No!”
The success of Washington’s wine industry is rooted in Washington’s farming heritage, geography, and the friendly nature of the winemaking community. “The experience of visiting Washington’s wineries is unique. It’s more authentic than other wine regions of the world,” said Robin Pollard, executive director of the Washington Wine Commission. “The wineries are typically small family-owned ventures, and you’re likely to visit with the winemaker who gets double duty in the tasting room. The experience is up-close and personal.”
$3 billion industry
In February 2008 the Washington Wine Commission and the Washington Association of Wine Grape Growers released a study showing that the Washington wine industry contributes $3 billion to the state economy and employs almost 19,000 people. More than 350 grape growers nurture 31,000 acres of wine grapes, mostly in the hot, arid climate east of the Cascade Range.
Washington is the second-largest premium wine-producing state in the nation, after California. But the most startling figure is the overall growth of the industry, which saw fewer than 20 wineries in 1981 growing to more than 500 today. Wine-related tourism expenditures increased 1,157 percent over 1999, reaching $237.6 million for 2006 — a 165.3-percent increase per year. The number of wine-related tourists in Washington increased from 350,000 in 1999 to 1.7 million in 2006. The bottom line: We’ve been discovered.
The numbers are staggering, but they don’t begin to paint the whole picture. Vineyard weddings, destination resorts, spas, fine dining, winery-sponsored summer concert series, and festivals that draw thousands of visitors every year to taste premium wine — they all add up to make Washington’s wine industry a force to be reckoned with.
A wine tourist’s biggest challenge is deciding which region to visit. With names like Leavenworth, Lake Chelan, Yakima Valley, Walla Walla, Puget Sound, Woodinville and the Columbia River Gorge, wine tourists are left dizzy trying to decide whether they should sample the red wine and chocolate in the Yakima Valley or experience the spring release in Walla Walla. It might help to look at a snapshot of a few select wine-country regions in Washington: Woodinville, Walla Walla, Lake Chelan and Prosser.
Woodinville
When it comes to winemaking in Washington, Woodinville first comes to mind for many due to its close proximity to Seattle, world-class wineries, and upscale amenities. The fact that there aren’t any vineyards there is one of the quirky things about Washington’s wine industry. Most wineries import their grapes from the grape-growing areas of the Columbia Valley.
Cynthia Daste, executive director of Woodinville Wine Country, noted, “Eight hundred thousand visitors a year experience Woodinville’s Chateau Ste. Michelle, and a large number of wine tourists are surprised to discover 30 more wineries tucked away in business parks.” Despite the fact that Woodinville’s population is less than 10,000, Daste remarked, “There’s no lacking of amenities. We’re blessed with restaurants such as the Barking Frog and the Herb Farm and the renowned Willows Lodge for overnight stays. Visitors can immerse themselves in a wonderful time.”
The future is bright for Woodinville wine country with the emergence of Woodinville Village and the continued popularity of events like Passport to Woodinville (first weekend in April) and St. Nick’s Open House (first weekend in December). Also hugely popular is the summer concert series on the Chateau Ste. Michelle grounds.
Walla Walla Valley
In 2005, Walla Walla received Sunset magazine’s Wine Destination of the Year award. With more than 100 wineries, a half-dozen fine restaurants, a number of quaint country inns, bed-and-breakfasts and hotels, wine trekkers won’t have any problem mixing wine with the finer things in life. But don’t make the mistake of calling Walla Walla the “Napa Valley of the north.” Although this may sound complimentary, the members of the Walla Walla Valley Wine Alliance have a different opinion. They want visitors to have a unique experience, Walla Walla-style. Here you can easily park your car, take a leisurely self-guided tour of the historic downtown, and sample a dozen wineries within a four-block radius.
Lake Chelan
Lake Chelan is another growing wine country region where visitors can take away memories of Tuscan-style architecture, groomed vineyards, and elegant wines. With an abundance of resort-style accommodations and a host of restaurants, the wineries tap into an existing well of visitors that return year after year. “We want visitors to feel they have had more than the generic tasting room experience,” said Lee Lewis, general manager of Tsillan Cellars. “We work very hard to educate our staff and hire only friendly people. Our guests should feel their experience was “tailor-made” for them. Whether they want to know the finer details of how our wine is made, and all the scientific techie data that that involves, or just want a friendly person to make them laugh, we want to be able to provide that element.”
The region’s wineries are still waiting for the much-anticipated designation of their Columbia Cascade American Viticultural Area. Once approved as an official AVA, the Columbia Cascade Winery Association can kick their marketing engine into high gear.
Prosser
In addition to the established wine country regions, perhaps the biggest news is what’s happening in Prosser. There, visitors will find 30 nearby wineries to explore, little to no tasting room fees, welcoming locals, zero traffic jams, and stunning views of Rattlesnake Mountain and the Horse Heaven Hills. It’s also the birthplace of Washington’s wine industry thanks to the pioneering work of Washington State University’s Dr. Walter J. Clore, who showed that European grape varietals could thrive in central Washington.
According to Deb Heintz, executive director of the Prosser Economic Development Association, “Prosser is already discovered by wine enthusiasts and we will enjoy the kind of tourist traffic we see in Leavenworth, Chelan and Walla Walla. But Prosser will have its own unique feel and give visitors a different experience.” However, she notes that Prosser is in that “chicken and egg” phase where they already have wine tourists but it could be a lot better. What’s needed is a critical mass of tour-related services such as European-style bistros, elegant day spas, and destination B&Bs.
But the final piece of the wine tourist puzzle for Prosser is the development of the 22-acre Walter Clore Wine and Culinary Center, a public-private sector vision to establish a center to educate and promote the state’s agriculture industry, including wine production and culinary practices. It has been on the drawing board for several years, it now appears the necessary funds are available to begin construction.
From rural Walla Walla to suburban Woodinville, Washington’s winemaking regions are many and varied, but one thing holds constant: They all offer an authentic Washington experience you won’t find anywhere else. Visitors are often surprised to discover that a visit to a winery housed in a double-wide or an old barn is just as enjoyable as a trip to a magnificent chateau. Why? It gets back to that authentic point that Pollard noted. You can smell the wine barrels, see the passion in the winemaker’s eyes and — more often than not — see the purple stains on his hands.
Steve Roberts, author of WineTrails of Washington, is founder of WineTrails Northwest (www.winetrailsnw.com). When he’s not writing about wine touring, Roberts is the owner and president of Orca Bay Benefits, an independent health insurance agency that services AWB HealthChoice clients.
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